Woke up, Made Eggs, Watched A Movie, Fixed A Computer, Played Guitar, Watched Another Movie.
Now I'm going to bed because I have work at 7. Some way to spend my day off, Pathetic. Very unfulfilled. My next day off isn't for another week and a half. I need to start doing something productive. Any ideas?
I need waves back in my life, January has been so flat. I've forgotten how to surf. I also need to test out my new/old 5/4 Excel suit that I got for free from a very generous guy named Pete. The wetsuit was kinda stinky and it's 2-3 seasons old, but I'll bet its better than my 6/5/4 O'neill straight jacket. Its nearly impossible to surf in my current suit so we'll see how this one goes.
Shot this about 3 weeks back, Only good day in a while and I only surfed for about 20 minutes. I sat in my car for a half an hour waiting for the sun to come up. My friend George was supposed to come but he didn't wake up. So I went by myself. I was the only soul on the beach and it was still semi dark. It was a dawn patrol for the books. I was pretty scared being by myself, it was bigger than I expected that day. If I was with george we would've been frothing and I probably would've skipped work. I hate surfing in the winter, it's very intimidating. Cold water, Heavy waves, Thick claustrophobic endusing wetsuits, etc. On top of that all the beach erosion has made the jetties at Long Beach nearly impossible to see when the waves get big. I had a near death experience the week before christmas, but I'll get to that another time. Since then I've been sketched out by the jetties pretty bad. I've got to stop being a bitch. I got washed over the jetty during hurricane bill and I just had a laugh about it. This recent one though has stayed with me. I'll leave you hanging on that story, I'll make it a bit suspenseful.
Heres that snap I was talking about.
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